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Italy’s most poetic coastline: The Amalfi Coast

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Imagine the refreshing scent of lemon trees on one side, and colorful towns cascading down cliffs on the other, quietly watching the waves of the Mediterranean. The Amalfi Coast is not just unforgettable for its breathtaking beauty but for the feelings it evokes. In Positano, pastel-colored homes cling to the hills, glowing golden at sunrise and bathed in magic at sunset. Strolling through Amalfi’s historic piazza, people watching in the lively streets of Positano, or witnessing a fiery sunset in the serene village of Praiano, every moment becomes a memory.

Where is the Amalfi Coast?

Stretching along the southern edge of the Bay of Naples between Sorrento and Salerno, the Amalfi Coast winds through dramatic cliffs, offering shelter to picture-perfect villages nestled between rugged mountain slopes.

During summer, Turkish Airlines (THY) operates two direct flights daily from Istanbul Airport to Naples. From Naples Airport, Positano is approximately a 1.5-hour drive, depending on seasonal traffic.

First stop: Positano

Positano feels like a scene from a classic Italian film. With its narrow stairways, charming alleyways and vibrant buildings, every corner invites you to take a photo.

A view from Positano on the Amalfi Coast in southern Italy. (Courtesy of Ilker Topdemir)

A view from Positano on the Amalfi Coast in southern Italy. (Courtesy of Ilker Topdemir)

Home to just 4,000 residents, the village welcomes up to 12,000 visitors daily during peak season, so be prepared for some traffic.

Must-see highlights

Church of Santa Maria Assunta: One of the town’s iconic landmarks, offering a spiritual and architectural experience.

The Church of Santa Maria Assunta on the Amalfi Coast in southern Italy. (Courtesy of Ilker Topdemir)

The Church of Santa Maria Assunta on the Amalfi Coast in southern Italy. (Courtesy of Ilker Topdemir)

Museo Archeologico Romano: A fascinating stop for those interested in local history and Roman archaeology.

The Path of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei): A scenic trail with panoramic views, perfect for hiking enthusiasts.

My favorite restaurants

A cherished seaside restaurant, Le Tre Sorelle is run by Luigi and Giovanna, the nephews of founder Giovannina. For over 60 years, the restaurant has combined quality ingredients with the simplicity of traditional family recipes. It’s more than just great food and hospitality, it’s a generational love story. It remains my all-time favorite for its unbeatable coastal location and comforting cuisine.

A gem in Positano, Casa Mele offers modern Italian dishes and an open kitchen where guests can watch culinary magic unfold. Known for both its elegant dining and hands-on cooking classes, the restaurant focuses on fresh, local ingredients. With Michelin star-level cuisine and service, it’s a must for any food lover.

Where to stay

A favorite among global celebrities, Il San Pietro di Positano is celebrating its 55th anniversary this year and for good reason. I’ve stayed in countless hotels through my work, but this one truly stands out. Light-filled, effortlessly elegant, and with all 56 rooms offering private terraces overlooking the sea, the hotel feels like a retreat into serenity.

A view of the beach at Il San Pietro di Positano on the Amalfi Coast in southern Italy. (Courtesy of Ilker Topdemir)

A view of the beach at Il San Pietro di Positano on the Amalfi Coast in southern Italy. (Courtesy of Ilker Topdemir)

The rooms, redesigned by Fausta Gaetani, feature hand-painted ceramic tiles, Mediterranean-toned fabrics, antiques and crisp white walls blending luxury with coastal charm. Every corner, every plant, every detail is curated with care. Despite its grandeur, the hotel feels like home. The staff offers warm, personal hospitality, making you feel more like a guest in a private villa than a hotel.

An interior view of a suite at Il San Pietro di Positano, a hotel in Positano on the Amalfi Coast in southern Italy. (Courtesy of Ilker Topdemir)

An interior view of a suite at Il San Pietro di Positano, a hotel in Positano on the Amalfi Coast in southern Italy. (Courtesy of Ilker Topdemir)

You’ll often spot General Manager Andrea Zana personally greeting guests, whether at the reception, restaurant, beach or gardens.

Dining at Il San Pietro

Zass Restaurant: Michelin-starred chef Alois Vanlangenaeker and his team craft dishes from fresh ingredients, many sourced from the hotel’s own 10,000-square-meter terraced gardens. Dine on a romantic veranda facing Praiano’s glittering lights or opt for the exclusive chef’s table in the kitchen.

Carlino: Located by the water, this casual beachfront restaurant is perfect for lunch. The fresh daily seafood and pasta are divine.

The hotel also offers a private sundeck carved into the rocks, complete with ladders into the sea. It’s here, under the sun and surrounded by calm, that you begin to understand what Italians mean by La Dolce Vita.

Next stop: Amalfi

Just a 40-minute drive from Positano, Amalfi is a tiny town with a big heart. Explore the majestic Cathedral of Amalfi, a striking blend of Norman and Arab architecture, along with its peaceful cloister. Visit the Museo della Carta to discover the town’s historic role in papermaking and wander through the narrow, covered alleys that lead toward the Valle dei Mulini (Valley of the Mills).

Stop by Cafe Pansa in the main square, famed for its delicate pastries and beloved lemon cake, ideal for people watching while enjoying a sweet bite.

A hidden treasure: Praiano

Nestled between Positano and Amalfi, Praiano is quieter and often overlooked, but its charm is undeniable.

A view from Praiano, a town in the province of Salerno in the Campania region on the Amalfi Coast, southern Italy. (Courtesy of Ilker Topdemir)

A view from Praiano, a town in the province of Salerno in the Campania region on the Amalfi Coast, southern Italy. (Courtesy of Ilker Topdemir)

As you wander its narrow streets, make time for Cafe Mirante, a local secret with breathtaking views. Sip an espresso or cocktail to the sound of classic Italian tunes and feel, even for a moment, like time has paused.

From cliffside walks to Michelin-starred dining, ancient churches to hidden cafes, the Amalfi Coast isn’t just a destination, it’s a feeling that lingers long after you leave.

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Where nature meets refinement: Göcek ready for world spotlight

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Imagine a place that gently proves you wrong every time you think “nothing can surprise me anymore.” Imagine an experience so intentional, so quietly rich, that it makes you pause and whisper, “I’ve never felt this before.” That’s exactly what happened when I arrived at Ahama, tucked away in southwestern Türkiye’s Günlüklü Bay, Göcek, a destination that isn’t just a retreat, but a return. Here, time slows down. Nature speaks, and for once, you actually listen. The Mediterranean glistens in the background, ancient sığla trees (sweetgums) whisper stories from centuries past, and every step feels like a reminder of something you forgot you needed. This isn’t luxury as we’ve come to know it, it’s something deeper. It’s luxury with soul. Ahama doesn’t try to impress you with grandeur. Instead, it invites you to feel. Built with raw, natural materials like jute, wood, stone and linen, the architecture quietly dissolves into the landscape. Inspired by Japanese minimalism and the wisdom of ancient Lycia, the space breathes. It’s a kind of silent elegance that doesn’t need to shout to be seen.

Scent and sound

Ahama is nestled in the heart of a 20-hectare protected forest, surrounded by Göcek’s signature sığla trees – trees that grow only here, their fragrance thick in the air, grounding you. Their presence is calming, almost ceremonial. You begin to breathe differently. Walk differently. Think differently. And though it feels like you’re far from it all, Göcek is only 20 minutes away, and Dalaman Airport is only 35.

A view of the beach at Ahama in Günlüklü Bay, Göcek, Muğla, southwestern Türkiye, July 17, 2025. (Courtesy of Funda Karayel)

A view of the beach at Ahama in Günlüklü Bay, Göcek, Muğla, southwestern Türkiye, July 17, 2025. (Courtesy of Funda Karayel)

You’re not escaping life, you’re simply stepping outside of its noise. Here, everything is curated not for your comfort but for your clarity. The Sound Temple, designed by the globally renowned Hector Esrawe, hosts healing sound journeys beneath the canopy of ancient trees. Morning yoga on the shoreline, breathwork, water therapy, somatic movement sessions, and even art therapy fill the days with meaning rather than noise.

Dining: A sensory ritual

The culinary experience at Ahama isn’t about indulgence, it’s about connection. Every meal feels like a story, every bite a ritual. Mezkla Göcek blends the boldness of Mexican cuisine with the subtle grace of the Mediterranean. It’s not fusion, it’s harmony. At Ege Umi, chef Mustafa Otar crafts dishes that are rooted in Aegean memory and refined through Japanese technique. You don’t just eat here, you feel what you’re eating. Sardines meet ponzu and olive oil. Sea bass is steamed with bergamot. Custard carries the soul of Ezine cheese. Everything whispers, “taste this moment.” And then there’s AY, where cooking becomes a primal, almost poetic act. Fire, smoke, salt and time shape dishes like whole roasted goat, smoked taramasalata, and fresh seafood grilled over an open flame. It’s food that connects you to something ancient.

MIORI by the Sea

One of the most talked-about new venues this season is “MIORI by the Sea,” a place where quiet luxury takes center stage and transports you straight to the heart of Italy. What sets MIORI apart is not only its serene and sophisticated atmosphere but also its bold collection of contemporary art pieces that command attention. This unique blend of refined elegance and artistic ambition makes MIORI a must-visit destination for those seeking an exclusive experience that speaks both to the senses and the soul.

Tucked away in the tranquil Bedri Rahmi Bay of Göcek, MIORI by the Sea unveiled its highly anticipated Riva Lounge with a dazzling launch on July 4. Set to become Türkiye’s first true gastro-destination, the event perfectly captured MIORI’s ethos: good food, good mood and good company. But what truly elevated the evening beyond the expected was the seamless blend of cuisine, atmosphere, and art, turning a night out into something unforgettable. As the sunset gave way to an electric set by Solange, SinCasa and Yakuza, guests found themselves immersed in an experience that was both rooted in the Aegean and undeniably global.

What caught my eye just as much as the scenery was the art and sculptural works that added soul to the space. I was especially drawn to Mert Ege Köse’s expressive piece and a stunning installation by Jake Michael Singer, both placed thoughtfully as part of a curated dialogue between nature and creativity.

An art piece by Mert Ege Köse greets visitors at MIORI by the Sea in Göcek, Muğla, southwestern Türkiye, July 17, 2025. (Courtesy of Funda Karayel)

An art piece by Mert Ege Köse greets visitors at MIORI by the Sea in Göcek, Muğla, southwestern Türkiye, July 17, 2025. (Courtesy of Funda Karayel)

The selection reflects the eye of AWC Contemporary gallery owner Haldun Kilit, whose presence in Göcek signals something bigger: the rise of an Aegean art scene that’s now ready to speak to the world.

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Nature, history, grace on Türkiye’s untouched coastline

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There are destinations that dazzle with opulence and then there are places that move you in silence – where turquoise waters meet golden sands and history peers out from the mountainside. Along Türkiye’s enchanting southwest coast, the stretch between Göcek, Dalyan and Iztuzu Beach offers just that kind of journey: immersive, graceful and unforgettable.

Iztuzu: Where turtles come home

Shaped like a golden arc between the Mediterranean Sea and the Dalyan River, Iztuzu Beach is nature at its most tender. This 4.5-kilometer (2-mile) stretch of sand is a protected nesting ground for the endangered Caretta Caretta turtles. Unspoiled by mass tourism, there are no concrete buildings, no loud music – just sun, sea and serenity.

An aerial view of Iztuzu, or Turtle Beach. (Shutterstock Photo)

An aerial view of Iztuzu, or Turtle Beach. (Shutterstock Photo)

What to do

Visit the DEKAMER Turtle Research Centre to learn about conservation efforts. Swim in the crystal-clear, shallow waters or walk the length of the beach at sunset. Bring a picnic – there are no beach clubs here and that’s precisely its charm.

The nesting cage for the protection of sea turtle eggs at Iztuzu Beach, Muğla, Türkiye, July 9, 2025. (Photo by Neslişah Yılmaz Hidayetoğlu)

The nesting cage for the protection of sea turtle eggs at Iztuzu Beach, Muğla, Türkiye, July 9, 2025. (Photo by Neslişah Yılmaz Hidayetoğlu)

Dalyan River: Journey through stillness

The journey to Iztuzu is often made by boat along the tranquil Dalyan River, where time seems to stand still. The river winds through reed forests and opens into a world of reflections and ancient ruins. Each bend reveals a new view, so keep your camera close.

What to do

Take a traditional wooden riverboat tour from Dalyan to Iztuzu, passing by ancient tombs and thermal springs. Stop at the mud baths and sulfur pools, which have long been believed to rejuvenate both skin and spirit. Wander Dalyan town for its cozy cafes, boutique shops and traditional Turkish breakfast by the water.

An aerial view of Dalyan, Muğla. (Shutterstock Photo)

An aerial view of Dalyan, Muğla. (Shutterstock Photo)

Where to stay

Bahaus Resort: Sustainable, chic and surrounded by nature.

Villa Gokbel: An intimate hilltop retreat with sweeping views over the delta.

Savana Otel: A charming boutique stay steps from the river, perfect for relaxed evenings.

Tombs of kings

High above the Dalyan River, carved into the cliffs, rest the haunting Lycian Kings’ Tombs – monumental rock-cut temples dating back to the 4th century B.C. Both visually striking and emotionally stirring, the tombs seem to gaze back at you as the light shifts across the stone.

A general view of the ancient Lycian tombs, Dalyan, Türkiye, July 8, 2025. (Photo by Neslişah Yılmaz Hidayetoğlu)

A general view of the ancient Lycian tombs, Dalyan, Türkiye, July 8, 2025. (Photo by Neslişah Yılmaz Hidayetoğlu)

What to do

View the tombs from a boat during golden hour: sunset offers the most dramatic light. Hike above the town for a closer look and panoramic views. Cross the river to explore the ancient city of Kaunos, home to a Roman amphitheater, baths, and agora.

Göcek: Hidden luxury by sea

Tucked between forested hills and jewel-toned bays, Göcek is a sailor’s dream and a sanctuary of quiet refinement. Though luxury yachts line its marinas, Göcek remains unspoiled, elegant and serene.

Where to stay

D-Resort Göcek: Polished, beachfront luxury with a private marina and spa.

Villa Danlin Hotel: A peaceful boutique stay offering traditional charm and warm hospitality.

Rixos Premium Göcek: Adults-only, all-inclusive elegance in a private bay.

Hilton Dalaman Sarıgerme Resort: A premium resort with 10 outdoor pools, waterparks and private beach access.

What to do

Charter a private gulet or boat to explore the Twelve Islands – each a hidden paradise. Dine seaside at Lotus Restaurant or Gaia for fresh fish and mezes. Shop for artisan jewelry and Turkish linen in Göcek’s stylish boutiques.

Dalaman: Quiet gateway to paradise

Often overlooked in favor of the more glamorous names along the Turkish Riviera, Dalaman is a quiet, sun-drenched gateway to some of Türkiye’s most breathtaking coastlines. Framed by pine-clad hills and kissed by the Mediterranean breeze, it’s both a beginning and a sanctuary.

From here, you are minutes away from the wild beauty of Iztuzu Beach, the tranquil rhythm of the Dalyan River and the secluded luxury of Göcek’s hidden bays. Whether you’re seeking adventure, healing waters, or a soft landing into serenity, Dalaman welcomes you with open skies and open arms.

For a soulful traveler

This journey isn’t about ticking off destinations. It’s about the slow reveal: the hush of water against wood, the scent of pine at dawn, the still gaze of the ancient tombs. Iztuzu, Dalyan and Göcek don’t demand attention; they earn it quietly.

Whether you’re swimming in sun-warmed seas, sailing from cove to cove, or sitting beneath a fig tree with a glass of tea, this is the kind of place that stays with you long after you’ve left.

Because here, in this untouched corner of Türkiye, luxury isn’t found in excess – but in essence.

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Italian summer: From Puglia’s blue caves to Rome’s golden rooftops

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There’s something magical about throwing a few bags in the backseat, lining up your favorite playlist and setting off on the open road with your favorite person beside you. This summer, that magic had a name: Puglia. A region where wild cliffs meet soft sand, where every corner hides a story, and where the light makes everything feel like a dream you don’t want to wake up from. This is the story of our southern Italian road trip, a journey of sun, sea, poetry, gelato and glamorous returns.

Postcard that breathes

First stop: Polignano a Mare, the crown jewel of Puglia’s Adriatic coastline. It’s no wonder it’s the most photographed beach in the region, perched atop dramatic cliffs, with whitewashed houses that seem to hover over turquoise waters.

We stood at Lama Monachile, breath stolen by the view. It’s not just a beach. It’s a natural amphitheater carved by time. We swam below the towering bridge, letting the sun dry us on ancient rocks, feeling small in the best way possible.

And then magic on a plate. Grotta Palazzese, a restaurant carved into a cliffside cave. We dined above crashing waves, with limoncello in our hands and poetry in our hearts.

And speaking of poetry, wandering Polignano’s old town, we stumbled upon Scalinata della Poesia’s “Poetry Staircase.” Each step is painted with verses, each one inviting us further down toward the sea. It felt like an invitation from the town itself: to pause, to read, to feel.

Grotta Palazzese, a restaurant carved into a cliffside cave, Puglia, Italy, July 7, 2025. (Photo by Funda Karayel)

Grotta Palazzese, a restaurant carved into a cliffside cave, Puglia, Italy, July 7, 2025. (Photo by Funda Karayel)

Natural pool for dreamers

Next, we drove further south to Grotta della Poesia, near Roca Vecchia. Legend has it that a beautiful princess once bathed in this natural pool, inspiring poets from all over Italy. Whether true or not, one dive into its crystalline waters and we were believers. The light filters through the cave openings in ways cameras can’t quite capture. It’s not just a swim. It’s a baptism into beauty.

Another must? Torre Sant’Andrea. Jagged rock formations jutting out of electric blue water, sculpted by centuries of wind and waves. We climbed, we swam, we sat in silence. This place demands it. It’s wild, raw and unapologetically itself.

Back to Rome

As all great road trips must, ours came full circle back to Rome. But with sea salt still in our hair and sand in our shoes, we returned differently. And Rome, in her eternal elegance, had one final act ready for us.

The first stop? As the eternal city continues to reinvent itself, this summer marks a dazzling new chapter in Rome’s timeless narrative: the grand opening of Orient Express La Minerva, the world’s very first Orient Express hotel. And what better place for such a debut than Rome, a city that has captivated cultural pilgrims and Grand Tour adventurers for centuries? Since 1883, Orient Express has been synonymous with elegance, mystery and a kind of journey that transcends geography. It was never just about getting somewhere; it was about being transported to a mood, a story and a time. And now, that spirit lives again in the very heart of Citta Eterna, where past and present embrace in a single, spectacular address. Set in the former Palazzo Fonseca, steps away from the Pantheon, La Minerva offers more than luxury. It offers legends. Restored with exquisite detail by Hugo Toro, the acclaimed artist-architect known for his sensitive balance between heritage and innovation, the hotel is a love letter to Rome’s layers. Every corner tells a story: marble floors whispering the footsteps of scholars, rich woodwork echoing with faded operas, bold contemporary touches that signal not just a revival, but a renaissance.

The famous beach of Sant’Andrea, located in Puglia, Italy, Jukly 7, 2025. (Photo by Funda Karayel)

Rooftop views

If every city has a heartbeat, then Bvlgari Hotel Roma might just be the place where Rome’s eternal rhythm slows down, softens and becomes something you can actually feel. It is nestled in the very core of the city, between the ancient hush of Ara Pacis and the silent grandeur of the Mausoleum of Augustus. This new jewel in Bvlgari’s crown is not just a hotel, but a dialogue between past and present. Once inside, the Bvlgari world unfolds glamorous yet quiet, indulgent but never overdone. The interiors whisper Roman refinement with a modern accent. Think deep velvets, antique mirrors, curated art and impeccable detailing that reflects the house’s jewelry heritage. It’s a place where every element has weight, meaning and beauty. But perhaps the most unforgettable moments come from the rooftop, where Rome reveals itself. The domes, the ruins, the whispers of centuries past all lay out before you as you sip an aperitivo under the sky.

One last toast

Our last night took us to Hotel de Russie, where Aquazzura’s bar is the place to end a trip like this. It’s stylish, intimate and somehow still a secret. One final toast, one last shared smile. Rome said goodbye in her finest fashion.

La Romana dal 1947

Before heading home, one final (and very important) ritual: gelato. The best is La Romana dal 1947. It is rich, creamy and made with love and tradition. “Wow” is an understatement. Try the crema dal 1947 or the biscotto. You’ll thank us.

Final thoughts

What we found on the road wasn’t just a road trip. It was a rediscovery of nature, of joy, of each other. Puglia gave us its raw edges and sunlit treasures. Rome reminded us of timeless charm and the art of returning.

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Cruises, cuisine, surf: Angola charts new tourism path

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When Feliesiano Muteca started surfing a decade ago, he had the waves at Cabo Ledo on Angola’s long Atlantic coastline pretty much to himself.

Now, the unspoilt and sandy beach about 125 kilometres (75 miles) south of the capital Luanda has become a prized destination for international surfers, with a reputation as a hidden gem.

The Portuguese-speaking southern African nation is still scarred by a long post-independence civil war that stalled its development, although parts of Luanda flash with oil money.

Wary of its dependence on oil and already burned by the market’s volatility, Angola is embarking on a drive to lure back foreign tourists by easing access for travelers and boosting its attractions.

These include Cabo Ledo, where Muteca is a qualified surfing instructor with the sport’s accredited body.

“There are two of us, and we give surf lessons,” said Muteca, who started out when he was about 10 years old by borrowing boards from other surfers.

“Otherwise, we’re there to help out on the beach,” he said, pointing to thatched cabanas being assembled on the sand.

Further along, a small lodge has set up a beachside cafe, with cabins on the hillside overlooking the Atlantic.

It is filled with a group of Germans enjoying the shade between waves. The same company, Carpe Diem, has a larger resort just up the coast.

Nearby tourist sites like the dramatic seaside Miradouro da Lua cliffs once had little more than a dusty road to a lookout point.

Now there’s a smoothie hut, with a branded wooden frame showing the best angles for photos and selfies.

Cruises and cuisine

After five decades of war that ended in 2002, the vast country had a Stalinist government suspicious of the outside world.

Oil fuelled a post-war boom but an oil crash sent the kwanza currency tumbling. In 2014, it traded at around 100 to the U.S. dollar. It is now trading around 900 to $1.

The oil boom days sent tourism to a high of nearly $1.6 billion in 2014, with the yacht crowd filling Luanda Bay and splashing huge sums on lavish beach parties.

That plunged to just $14.8 million last year, according to the National Bank.

It led the government to adopt a new tourism strategy.

Since last year, dozens of countries have visa-free entry. An airport where soldiers once patrolled with AK-47s is now staffed with smiling young travel ambassadors wearing denim overalls with bibs that read: “Can I help you?”.

The yacht club remains busy but Luanda has also become a stop for cruise liners.

Local tour companies are opening to guide visitors through the less developed interior.

And high-end international companies are adding Angola to their itineraries.

Luanda-born writer Claudio Silva in June co-hosted a week-long journey for foodies, travelling with a top Angolan chef to visit new wineries and explore pre-colonial cuisine and heritage farming.

“Deep-dive gastronomic tours like the one we’re doing with Roads and Kingdoms are an opportunity for us to tell our own stories, through food and culture, in urban and rural settings, where our journey is guided by the experiences of the people who live here,” he said.

South African luxury train operator Rovos Rail has also added the Angolan port city of Lobito to its routes, creating overland treks that can run across the continent from the Indian Ocean to the Atlantic.

Those journeys pass through inland areas largely unseen by outsiders for decades. That means accommodation can be basic or require camping.

The once-rich wildlife population was decimated by the years of war but government-sponsored repopulation efforts are under way, said Pedro Monterroso of African Parks, a non-profit conservation group.

Local rangers and communities are also being trained to become involved in the safari sector, said Monterroso, whose organization has been hired by Angola to run Iona National Park along the Namibian border in the ancient Namib desert.

“The vision is they want to be Namibia or Botswana in 10 or 15 years,” Monterroso said, referring to Angola’s neighbors that draw tens of thousands of foreign tourists every year to their unspoiled natural riches.

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Sophisticated side of Nice: A journey off tourist trail

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When you think of Nice, you immediately imagine the famous Promenade des Anglais, the azure blue sea, glamorous yachts and sun-drenched beaches. But beyond this picture-book façade, a quiet elegance that makes Nice so special is revealed to the attentive traveler. The Cote d’Azur shows its intimate, almost private side here, full of hidden gems that escape mass tourism. An exclusive foray through the real Nice.

Postcards featuring scenes of French cities, Nice, France, May 17, 2025. (Photo by Derya Taşbaşı)

Postcards featuring scenes of French cities, Nice, France, May 17, 2025. (Photo by Derya Taşbaşı)

Hidden beaches

While the iconic city beach is often overcrowded, there are small, almost intimate bays not far from the old town that few visitors know about. Plage de la Reserve is one such place: surrounded by rocks, with crystal-clear water and a touch of privacy, it offers the perfect retreat for relaxing hours. Just a few minutes further on is Coco Beach – a hidden rocky beach that is mainly frequented by locals. Here you can hear the sound of the sea almost alone as the sun slowly sinks into the water.

If you want something even more exclusive, you should plan a short drive to Villefranche-sur-Mer. The small bay offers a spectacular backdrop with pastel-colored houses, small boats and an almost Caribbean-like water – perfect for a private boat tour or an aperitif on a yacht.

Viewpoints for connoisseurs

The view over the Baie des Anges from the Colline du Chateau is spectacular, and hardly any visitors get lost on the higher Mont Boron. Here, in the park of the same name, a breathtaking panorama opens up over the entire coast as far as Monaco. In the early hours of the morning or at sunset, this place has an almost magical atmosphere.

A general view of the Hotel Des Ambassadeurs, Nice, France, May 18, 2025. (Photo by Derya Taşbaşı)

A general view of the Hotel Des Ambassadeurs, Nice, France, May 18, 2025. (Photo by Derya Taşbaşı)

Even less well-known is the Cascade de Gairaut above the city: an artificial waterfall from the 19th century, nestled in a green oasis with sweeping views of the city – a perfect place for an elegant picnic, far away from the tourist hustle and bustle.

Off-track dining

Nice is famous for its Mediterranean cuisine, but delve deeper and you’ll discover a culinary scene full of character and authenticity.

Chez Pipo, tucked away in the Quartier du Port, serves the best socca in town – the traditional chickpea flatbread, crispy yet tender. A simple but sophisticated dish that carries the spirit of the Cote d’Azur.

A general view of the restaurant Davia, Nice, France, May 22, 2025. (Photo by Derya Taşbaşı)

A general view of the restaurant Davia, Nice, France, May 22, 2025. (Photo by Derya Taşbaşı)

On the Marche de Liberation, away from the more famous Cours Saleya, you can experience the culinary soul of Nice in an even more authentic way. This is where the locals buy fresh seafood, Provençal vegetables and fine truffles. If you crave a glass of exceptional wine, the stylish wine bar La Part des Anges serves excellent, locally produced natural wines accompanied by fine tapas.

A very special insider tip is the elegant restaurant JAN, run by South African Michelin-starred chef Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen. Here, French sophistication and South African influences merge to create an unforgettable gourmet experience.

Unknown districts

While most visitors drift through the old town and the promenade, the real Nice reveals itself in its districts away from the tourist crowds.

The Liberation district enchants with its traditional market, small bistros and the authentic lifestyle of the locals. In the cafes, older gentlemen sit with a pastis while young creatives enjoy their croissants.

A general view of the restaurant Le Plongeoir, Nice, France, May 24, 2025. (Photo by Derya Taşbaşı)

A general view of the restaurant Le Plongeoir, Nice, France, May 24, 2025. (Photo by Derya Taşbaşı)

A few streets away, around Rue Bonaparte, the new, hip center of Nice is emerging: boutiques by independent designers, stylish cafés, intimate bars and galleries – a paradise for anyone who appreciates the subtle luxury of authenticity.

Away from classic museums

Of course, the Musee Matisse and the Musee d’Art Moderne are a must for any art lover. But the true cultural finesse is often hidden from view. The Musee Massena, a magnificent villa from the Belle Époque, tells the glamorous story of Nice with a touch of understatement.

And then there is the surprisingly diverse street art scene around the port: in the quieter alleyways of the Quartier du Port, you can discover modern, urban works of art that stand in exciting contrast to the historical backdrop.

Boutique instead of palace

If you want to enjoy Nice in style, the city’s charming boutique hotels are a welcome alternative to the grand palaces.

Historic buildings of Nice, France, May 23, 2025. (Photo by Derya Taşbaşı)

Historic buildings of Nice, France, May 23, 2025. (Photo by Derya Taşbaşı)

The Hotel Rossetti, in the heart of the old town, offers elegant rooms in a historic building with a view of Place Rossetti – it doesn’t get much more romantic than that.

The Hotel Amour Nice, on the other hand, combines stylish retro chic with urban luxury. The rooftop pool with a view of the city is an exclusive retreat after a day of exploring.

Elegance under stars

When the sun goes down, a nightlife begins in Nice that deliberately sets itself apart from the loud beach parties of the Cote d’Azur.

At the Bar des Oiseaux, you can meet artists, intellectuals and creative minds over excellent cocktails in an intimate atmosphere. For live music lovers, Le Shapko is an institution – jazz, soul and blues performed in a small, stylish club. Here you can experience Nice from its sensual, almost secret side.

An aerial view of the renowned Promenade des Anglais, Nice, France, May 18, 2025. (Photo by Derya Taşbaşı)

An aerial view of the renowned Promenade des Anglais, Nice, France, May 18, 2025. (Photo by Derya Taşbaşı)

Nice for connoisseurs

Nice only reveals itself to the true connoisseur at second glance. It is not the obvious luxury that makes this city so special, but its discreet elegance, attention to detail and the many little escapes from everyday life. Those who leave the beaten track will discover a Riviera in Nice that remains invisible to mass tourism – exclusive, authentic and full of quiet beauty.

Because true luxury is not loud. It is quiet. And that is precisely what makes the quiet elegance of Nice so irresistible.

72 hours in Nice

If you want to experience the flair of this quiet elegance for yourself, a long weekend in Nice is just the thing.

Here is a refined itinerary for three unforgettable days:

Day 1

Arrive, take a deep breath, immerse yourself. Start with a stroll through the old town – past hidden boutiques, old facades and the scent of lavender and citrus.

A general view of Colline du Chateau, Nice, France, May 24, 2025. (Photo by Derya Taşbaşı)

A general view of Colline du Chateau, Nice, France, May 24, 2025. (Photo by Derya Taşbaşı)

Enjoy a socca at Chez Pipo at lunchtime and end the day in style with a glass of natural wine at La Part des Anges.

Day 2

Early in the morning head to Mont Boron – the view of the sea at this hour is unforgettable. Then breakfast in the Libération district, followed by a visit to the Musée Masséna.

Evening: fine dining at JAN, where every dish tells a story.

Day 3

The day belongs to the sea. Either with a swim stop at the Plage de la Reserve, a walk to Coco Beach or for that special moment, a boat trip to Villefranche-sur-Mer.

The last evening is spent under the stars with live music at Le Shapko or a quiet drink on the roof terrace of the Hotel Amour.

A short trip becomes a short escape into a world where time, style and pleasure are in perfect harmony.



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Capri’s ‘mad blue’: Island’s enchanting sea, scenic wonders

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Capri is a small island in the Tyrrhenian Sea just off the Sorrentine Peninsula coast of Naples. Most visitors rush through on a day trip, but if you want to fully experience the island at its best, I highly recommend slowing down and staying for at least four days. Capri is part of the region of Campania in the Naples province. The town of Capri is the island’s main population center. The island has two harbors, Marina Piccola and Marina Grande.

The island may be small, but a few days will give you extra time to explore the famous Blue Grotto, hike Monte Solaro, Anacapri, the iconic Faraglioni rocks, the mystical Blue Grotto, charming Marina Piccola, historic Villa San Michele, the Punta Carena Lighthouse and of course, Capri’s breathtaking nature and exceptional restaurants. The island that will mesmerize you with its unique shades of blue, and people watching in the Piazzetta without feeling rushed is a memorable experience.

A general view of Capri island, Italy, June 10, 2025. (Photo by İlker Topdemir)

A general view of Capri island, Italy, June 10, 2025. (Photo by İlker Topdemir)

Just a 30-minute ferry ride from Naples, Capri is a destination where every season brings its own kind of magic. There’s so much to see and experience on the island, from wandering the quiet elegance of Anacapri to cruising past the dramatic Faraglioni, swimming in the glowing waters of the Blue Grotto, or simply enjoying a long lunch with sea views.

One of the must-do experiences is a boat tour around the island. It is an unforgettable way to admire Capri’s wild coastline. You can also rent a scooter and explore from one end to the other, or lace up your walking shoes and discover hidden paths and scenic viewpoints on foot.

But let’s pause for a moment because the sea here is a different kind of blue. A “mad blue,” as the locals might say bold, deep and endlessly inspiring. This magical hue has stirred the imagination of fashion icons and artists alike for decades.

On the far side of the island lies Punta Carena, home to Capri’s famous lighthouse. It’s a perfect spot for sunset lovers, quiet, scenic and drenched in golden light. You can walk there from Anacapri in about 40 minutes, or drive/scooter over in 10. While you’re there, don’t miss Sunset Maliblu, a relaxed beach club where you can unwind after a day of exploring. Just don’t forget your swimsuit because between the sunset views and the turquoise waters, you’ll want to dive right in.

Capri Palace Jumeirah

Nestled at the foot of Mount Solaro in Anacapri, Capri Palace Jumeirah is often referred to as the island’s hidden gem. Home to 80 rooms and suites, this elegant retreat is one of Capri’s most distinguished properties, boasting a world-class spa and two Michelin stars. Guests arrive via a picturesque, vine-draped walkway that opens onto a panoramic terrace with sweeping views of nearby Ischia.

Interior of a room at Capri Palace, Capri, Italy. (Courtesy of Capri Palace)

Interior of a room at Capri Palace, Capri, Italy. (Courtesy of Capri Palace)

Anacapri offers a quieter, more authentic side of the island, where locals still go about their daily lives. Just steps outside the hotel, you’ll find yourself immersed in the relaxed rhythm of village life, far from the more touristy bustle of central Capri.

Ilker Topdemir poses in the garden at Capri Palace Jumeirah, Capri, Italy, June 10, 2025. (Photo by İlker Topdemir)

Ilker Topdemir poses in the garden at Capri Palace Jumeirah, Capri, Italy, June 10, 2025. (Photo by İlker Topdemir)

Don’t miss dinner at the two-Michelin-star L’Olivo restaurant and bar. Off-site, Capri Palace Jumeirah also operates Il Riccio and aMare, a world-renowned pizza spot you shouldn’t miss.

A general view of a'Mare, a renowned pizza spot on Capri, Italy, June 9, 2025. (Photo by İlker Topdemir)

A general view of a’Mare, a renowned pizza spot on Capri, Italy, June 9, 2025. (Photo by İlker Topdemir)

The rooms at Capri Palace Jumeirah are styled in a quintessential Capri palette of blue and white. Milky ceramic tiles with delicate blue patterns and crisp white linen upholstery create an atmosphere that is both fresh and elegant.

Fine dining served at L’Olivo Restaurant, Capri, Italy, June 9, 2025. (Photo by İlker Topdemir)

Fine dining served at L’Olivo Restaurant, Capri, Italy, June 9, 2025. (Photo by İlker Topdemir)

This year, the hotel introduced five brand new suites, each designed by renowned Italian architect and designer Patricia Urquiola. These suites, complete with private terraces, feature custom-made ceramics in soft blue tones that reflect the island’s natural beauty.

What truly sets the hotel apart, however, is its impeccable service. The professionalism and warmth of the staff elevate the entire experience, turning a luxurious stay into something truly exceptional.

Villa San Michele

When he died, the Swedish physician and author Axel Munthe left behind a legacy as a healer as well as a reputation for generosity; he would treat impoverished patients without charge. He also left behind Villa San Michele, his home and garden in Anacapri, which has been lauded as one of the most beautiful in Italy. With impressive horticultural knowledge, Munthe filled his gardens with rare and exotic flora. Today, Villa San Michele is a destination for tourists curious to see the idyll Munthe once inhabited.

Monte Solaro

Monte Solaro is the highest point on the island of Capri. From here, you can see the Faraglioni Rocks, Mount Vesuvius, the Isle of Ischia, Sorrento and the Bay of Naples.

An aerial view of the Faraglioni Rocks, Capri, Italy, June 9, 2025. (Photo by İlker Topdemir)

An aerial view of the Faraglioni Rocks, Capri, Italy, June 9, 2025. (Photo by İlker Topdemir)

From the bottom station in Anacapri, it is a seven-minute ride by chairlift to Monte Solaro. Tickets cost 12 euros ($14) round trip. The entire visit takes about 45 minutes to one hour.

Punta Carena

Located on the southwest corner of Capri, far away from major tourism centers, the Punta Carena Lighthouse is a secluded and picturesque attraction near Anacapri. First used in 1867, the lighthouse is one of the oldest in Italy and enjoys spectacular views of the coastline. There is a public beach and picnic area near the lighthouse, and there are a few charming beach cafes in the area as well. Visitors love the history and secluded nature of this attraction.

An aerial view of the Faro di Punta Carena Lighthouse, Anacapri, Capri, Italy. (Shutterstock Photo)

An aerial view of the Faro di Punta Carena Lighthouse, Anacapri, Capri, Italy. (Shutterstock Photo)

You can access this attraction by boat, foot or bus. Many boat tours pass around the lighthouse, and sunset views of it from the water are spectacular. The hike from Anacapri on Via Nuova del Faro takes about an hour. If you’d prefer to take the bus, you can take the Faro Anacapri route from Piazza della Pace, which will take you right by the lighthouse.

Restaurants

Da Gelsomina

A Culinary Gem Above the Bay of Naples, tucked away in the peaceful hills of Anacapri, Da Gelsomina is one of the island’s most beloved dining spots, celebrated for its traditional island fare and breathtaking views stretching across the Bay of Naples. Meals are served beneath a vine-draped pergola or on a panoramic terrace, where the Mediterranean landscape unfolds in every direction from the countryside of Anacapri to the distant silhouettes of Mount Vesuvius and Ischia.

A meal served at Da Gelsomina, Capri, Italy. (Courtesy of Da Gelsomina)

A meal served at Da Gelsomina, Capri, Italy. (Courtesy of Da Gelsomina)

Here, the menu honors time-honored recipes passed down through generations. Savor island classics like ravioli capresi, coniglio alla cacciatora, pollo al mattone (brick pressed chicken) and spaghetti alla chiummenzana, tossed with sun ripened tomatoes. Each dish is prepared with seasonal ingredients from the garden and cooked with the same care and authenticity that has defined Da Gelsomina for decades. By day, the view is drenched in sunlight; by evening, it’s bathed in golden hues as the sun sets over the sea. The perfect backdrop for a truly Caprese dining experience.

Aurora restaurant

More than just a restaurant, it’s a story of passion and inspiration passed down through generations. A legendary destination favored by icons such as Valentino, Jackie O, Truman Capote and Giorgio Armani.

A general view of Aurora Restaurant in Capri, Italy. (Courtesy of Aurora Restaurant)

A general view of Aurora Restaurant in Capri, Italy. (Courtesy of Aurora Restaurant)

Be sure to try the signature pizza all’acqua, a cherished century-old recipe, alongside a curated wine tasting experience and irresistible traditional Neapolitan sweets.

For over 100 years, the iconic Aurora restaurant and pizzeria, run by the D’Alessio family, has been delighting Capri’s visitors with exceptional food and wine. Nestled on the stylish Via Fuorlovado, Aurora has earned international acclaim for its refined Mediterranean cuisine and beloved Neapolitan and Caprese classics. Under the creative touch of Chef Franco Aversa, these time-honored dishes are reimagined with subtle innovation, securing Aurora’s place among Capri’s most exclusive dining destinations.

Travel tips

From Istanbul to Naples International Airport, there are two flights per day in summer. Turkish Airlines flies one in the early morning and one in the afternoon to Napoli.

I recommend purchasing your ferry tickets from Naples to Capri in advance. Especially during the holiday season, the ferries fill up quickly.



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